Istanbul: Gateway to the East

I really can't think of a more appropriate place to have begun my journey to Tajikistan - where I will be working for the next 8 months - than Istanbul. A meeting place of myriad cultures for centuries, this city is both East and West bound into one. I have heard of the great allure of the city and have to admit that I have been touched by its magnetic qualities and can't wait to get back.

My journey here began late night in Boston. After taking a red-eye flight to Heathrow, I was presented with a seemingly grueling 7-hour layover. I didn't even notice, as I proceeded to sleep for almost 6 hours, interrupted only by a quick bite to eat at Wagamama. Hopping the flight to Istanbul, I was on the last leg of my trip . . . for a few days. I ended up sitting next to a young Turkish man who is currently studying international finance and regaled me with the virtues and vices of Turkish society and politics. It was interesting to get a young Turkish perspective on everything from the Turkish candidacy for EU membership to the best bars to hang out at in Istanbul.

After landing around 11:30pm and proceeding through the surprisingly quick immigration process, I hopped in a cab to my hotel in the Sultanahmet district of Istanbul. Exhausted and desperately needing a shower, I scrubbed off the layers of dirt and sweat, watched a little BBC News and passed out.

The next morning I was awoken by the call to prayer and a beautiful day. Showering again for good measure, I headed to my hotel's continental breakfast. I was presented with one of the best free breakfasts I've ever seen anywhere in the world as well as the most incredible view of Istanbul and the Bosphorous from my hotel's rooftop terrace.

Recharged, albeit desperately jetlagged, I set off for a day of sightseeing. Istanbul can seem very intimidating at first with the various districts and mix of public transportation and walking. I found, however, that after a half day of getting my bearings, it is truly a very manageable city. I always like to get acquainted with any place I go by visiting the tourist sites on the first day and then wandering/getting lost/venturing further afield the rest of my time there. Thus, I spent the day visiting the Blue Mosque, Aya Sophia, the Basilica Cistern and Topkapi Palace. Each site presented unique insight into the history of Istanbul and the multitude of empires, civilizations and cultures that have shaped it. I was particularly impressed by Aya Sophia. An engineering marvel in its own right, its interior is incredibly awe inspiring. It feels intimidating and welcoming at once.

Aya Sophia

Interior of Aya Sophia

Basilica Cistern

Blue Mosque

Blue Mosque

Topkapi Palace

Fresh pomegranate juice everywhere

The next day I ventured to the Beyoglu side of the city, also considered the epicenter of "new Istanbul".  A quick tram and funicular ride up the hill, I began my wanderings at Taksim Square, down the long Istiklal Caddesi, flanked on both sides by modern clothing and electronic stores.  Intermittently, views of the New Mosque and Aya Sophia on the opposite bank could be seen from the street, juxtaposing Istanbul's centuries old history with its burgeoning modern heartbeat.  The Pera Museum offered an interesting perspective on Istanbul from the eyes of European travelers of yore with paintings depicting everyday life in Istanbul and an obvious obsession with the Orient.

Around noon, I broke out onto the bridge linking Sultanahmet and Beyoglu and proceeded to elbow my way through the throngs to get my hands on a freshly cooked fish sandwich straight from the fishermen's boats.  It was the perfect introduction back to Sultanahmet.

The next few hours can only be relayed from a cloud of confusion and oxygen deprivation as I wandered through the Grand Bazaar and its miles of associated storefronts.  I am convinced that you can find anything you could ever want here if you're willing to take the time to bargain and fight the sea of people haggling over everything from blue jeans to saffron; light bulbs to lamb sausage.  At some point I saw light and smelled fresh air and made my way to an opening, exploding onto Beyazit Square.  I desperately needed tea and a trip to a Turkish hamam.

Walking a little ways from Beyazit Square, I found Cemberlitas Hamami.  Having heard of its beautiful construction dating back to 1584, I decided that this should be where I had my first Turkish bath experience.  After undressing and throwing on the requisite Turkish towel, I entered an incredibly beautiful marble room that was almost stiflingly humid.  I was instructed to lie down on the large central marble slab and wait for my attendant.  Light streamed in from the small glass holes at the top of the dome, both heating and serving as the only light source for the room.  The next 15 minutes can only be explained as a combination of relaxation and pain as my large, hairy Turkish attendant proceeded to soap me down and knead my muscles into submission.  Grunts of pain could be heard from others in the room.  Relaxation and pain surging through me, I fell asleep on the marble slab for probably 30 minutes, awaking ready to take on more of the city.

Fishing boats

Cooking up lunch

The throngs at the Grand Bazaar

Unfortunately, as it was the end of Ramadan and Eid al-Fitr was on the horizon, many of the other places I had hoped to visit were closed.  This has only motivated me further to visit the city again.

Tajikistan awaits . . .